🔗 Share this article

It's pumpkin season and my favourite season, especially for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chili and jaggery lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which provide so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and layer all components on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, stir to coat in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature, place lid and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pan. Sprinkle with coriander, then take off the stove.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, place a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon one portion the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the cooked grains. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Top with the remaining vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover rice. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Cover with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Take out of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "pickling style" describes seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also features in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, fry for a minute, then add the squash, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.